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#21: Six Sonoff Secrets

Customise your Sonoff home automation controllers with a memory upgrade, weatherproof housing, control switches, sensors, and custom firmware.

ITEAD keep releasing new Sonoff models so this isn’t a complete list, but some of the models mentioned in the video include:

Storage

winbond-25q32fvThe flash memory chip in Sonoffs is 8Mbit, which is only 1MByte. Then if you want to do OTA (Over The Air) updates you need to limit your program size to less than half the available memory so that a new program can be uploaded alongside the old one. And if you use a SPIFFS (SPI Flash File System) to store non-volatile data outside your program, you lose even more memory.

You can replace the flash memory chip with a Winbond 25Q32FV in SOP-8 package, which is a 32Mbit (4MByte) chip. You can buy them on eBay for about US$3 for a pack of 10.

The original flash memory on the Sonoff is a Winbond 25Q08FV, which is the 8MBit (1MByte) version of the same chip.

Thanks to Pete Scargill for this idea! You can see more on his original blog post: “32Mb ESP01 and Sonoff

Safety

Sure, you can just cut a power lead and screw it into a Sonoff, but it’s probably a bad idea. You need to consider how your Sonoff will be used, including physical protection (stop little fingers reaching the terminals!) and liquid protection from spills. You also need to make sure there is strain relief on the cables to prevent them being pulled out, and possibly exposing live mains connections. You can do it cheaply using a plastic project box, and with some cable ties around the cables just inside the box so they can’t be pulled out. The result can be a very neat setup that won’t look like a dodgy DIY cable, and should be safe for general use.

sonoff-powerboard

You can go even further and use an IP-rated (Ingress Protection) case and cable glands, to make your Sonoff waterproof and physically very strong.

sonoff-ip56-case

In this video I gave a very simple explanation of the two-digit IP codes. There are also extensions to the code for other attributes. You can find more information and tables showing the specific meaning of the numbers at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code.

Switches

Internet control is fun, but usually you also want some way to manually turn the output on or off without using your phone. You can modify a Sonoff to connect an external button across the pins of the built-in button, allowing you to toggle the output by pressing the button manually. The built-in button is connected to GPIO0, so when the button is pressed it pulls GPIO0 to GND. This is used during power-up to put the Sonoff into bootloader mode, and can also be used to toggle the output or do other actions.

sonoff-gpio0-terminals

Alternatively, you can connect an external button between GND and GPIO14 so that your software running on the Sonoff can detect when it has been pressed. Some firmware, including Theo Arends’s TASMOTA, supports this out of the box.

GPIO14 is exposed on the internal header used to upgrade the software on a standard Sonoff. There is already a pull-up resistor on GPIO14, so you don’t need any other parts. Just connect a button across the GPIO14 and GND pins, and you’re done!

sonoff-header

Even better, TASMOTA has an option to support an external switch instead of an external button. The difference is that with a button, you want the output to change state each time you press and release the button. This means the firmware needs to treat both the button press and release (cycling from HIGH to LOW to HIGH) as a single event. But a switch just changes state (goes from HIGH to LOW, or goes from LOW to HIGH) and stays there because it latches in place. So your software needs to treat each level change as a separate event, and toggle the output. Once again, TASMOTA supports this out of the box.

Sensors

As explained in the section about switches, the regular Sonoff exposes GPIO14 on the internal header that is used for flashing new firmware. The same header also provides GND and 3.3V connections, and the GPIO14 pin is provided with a pull-up resistor. This makes it super easy to connect anything that needs a single digital pin, such as an external switch / button or a one-wire sensor.

sonoff-th-sensor-pinoutTo make it even easier, the Sonoff TH10A and TH16A both feature a 2.5mm 4-way (TRRS) socket that is intended for connecting external sensors. The socket provides 3.3V, GND, and GPIO14: the same I/O pin exposed on the internal header of a normal Sonoff. That means you don’t even need to modify the board, you can simply plug in your sensor or switch externally.

sonoff-th-with-cable-800

The 2.5mm socket also has a 4th connection, but there are parts missing inside the Sonoff so it’s left unused. You can fix this easily by putting a solder blob across two pads on the Sonoff PCB, and optionally installing a pull-up resistor.

In the video I said that there is a 10k pull-up from GPIO14 to 3.3V. However, I didn’t notice that there are actually 2 pull-ups in parallel, so the effective pull-up on GPIO14 is 5k! You can still use a 10k pull-up on GPIO4 if you like, or you can use a 4.7k resistor if you want them to be about the same. 4.7k is common for I2C, but 10k is generally fine too.

sonoff-th-bottom-breakouts

Software

There are many alternative firmware projects for the Sonoff. Personally I love Theo Arends’s firmware, but there are many others that may suit you better.

To learn about how to install new firmware, see SuperHouseTV Episode #17: Home automation control with Sonoff, Arduino, MQTT, and OpenHAB.

If you have any other suggestions please let me know in the comments below, and I’ll update this list.

Sites

Because the Sonoff uses an ESP8266 microcontroller, there are a huge number of sites with information that’s relevant to the Sonoff. These include:

58 thoughts on “#21: Six Sonoff Secrets

  1. Woah! I extremely like your post!
    All the information’s and ideas that was missing from somewhere else!
    Continue your great work!

    And I’m exited to work on ways to embed toggle switch in firmware with states. You have an starting exemple?

  2. Great video! Very instructive and your enthusiasm is infectious.
    Question though, re: housing in IP rated boxes (nice explanation btw).

    How much of a negative effect does that housing have on WiFi range of the ESP8266?

    nb Using Chrome 55. no input boxes appear for this form.

    1. Thanks Paul 🙂

      That’s a really interesting question about the box reducing WiFi range. My initial reaction was “no, of course not, plastic doesn’t absorb WiFi signals” but then I stopped to think about it a bit more and realised that it *may* have some effect. Industrial cases like the one I used are usually very thick and heavy, much thicker than the plastic on a simple consumer product, and depending on the specific plastic it may contain material that attenuates a 2.4GHz signal. Not likely, but possible. One interesting idea I’ve heard is that if you want check if a specific material will attenuate a WiFi signal, try putting it in a microwave oven for a few seconds and see if it gets hot. If it does, it contains material that absorbs the same frequencies as 802.11b/g etc use. If it doesn’t get hot, the radiation is passing straight through unimpeded. I’ve never tried that myself but I’m tempted to put a box in the microwave just to see what happens. IMPORTANT: make sure there are no captive nuts or other metal parts in the box before you microwave it!

  3. Have you taken a look at “Homie” ?

    Homie is a lightweight MQTT convention for the IoT.

    https://github.com/marvinroger/homie

    This is a cool framework. there is also a OTA managment server for it at : https://github.com/jpmens/homie-ota/

    1. Yes, I’ve looked at Homie in the past, and I quite like it. I think it’s important to have some sort of structure to MQTT topics, otherwise things get out of control very quickly. When I started using MQTT about 5 years ago I did the usual thing of using random topics out of convenience. It’s easy to do that, but before long you won’t remember what is being published where. I keep a spreadsheet of topics but even that can end up out of sync with reality. Since I’ve been using Theo Arends’s firmware on Sonoffs I’ve been inclined to use his topic structure, just because it’s how the firmware works and it’s easier than maintaining a forked version of his code. His structure is different to Homie: personally I think the Homie structure is better than Theo’s structure because it slices the topics in a different way, with everything oriented around devices rather than message types, but that’s totally a personal opinion. Both ways are “right” if they make sense, and Theo’s structure makes enough sense to me that I’m very happy to use it.

  4. Can you kindly post details of the waterproof box you used?

    1. I got that box a while ago from a certain company that I won’t link to anymore. However, it’s similar to this one that has slightly different dimensions: http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h0301-ritec-105lx75wx40hmm-ip65-sealed-abs-enclosure/

      I’ll update the page with links to some products 🙂

  5. Great video, Jonathan. Please keep them coming.

    I found these Windbond chips on ebay but the lower most number listed on the chip does not match your image. Will this matter?

    Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-WINBOND-W25Q32FVSSIG-W25Q32FVSIG-25Q32FVSIG-SOP-8-IC-Chips-FLASH-BS1-/262478524681?hash=item3d1cf07109:g:LmMAAOSw9eVXWwLa

    Thanks,

    C

    1. Yes, those are fine. The part number is correct: the bottom number is usually a batch code or date code in year-week format, so that’s 2016 week 8.

      1. great thanks, Jonathan.

  6. Just wanted to say thanks for a quality post. You are so right, safety is forgotten all to often. Thanks for demonstrating how safety is part of quality.

  7. I am confused by two topics in this episode, first you suggest and demonstrate replacing the flash chip to allow OTA. Later, you cover TASMOTA which incorporates OTA using the existing Sonoff memory. Did i miss something along the way? Is the existing memory sufficient for TASMOTA version of OTA or does it require a replacement chip?

    1. TASMOTA fits in the factory-supplied flash memory, so there’s no need to upgrade if you use it. However, many other people have run out of space on the Sonoff when writing their own firmware. If you use TASMOTA, you don’t have to bother with the memory upgrade 🙂

  8. Great video as ever Jonathan 🙂

    I was running a Domoticz setup before I found out about the Sonoff (via you)

    The ESP Easy firmware works really well with the Sonoff and Domoticz has a built in MQTT broker.

    http://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/ESPEasy

  9. Love your videos Jon!
    Do you know if these devices are approved for install into homes in Australia ? I have a couple Belkin products but they are quite expensive. Getting the sparky to put some of these in would be a lot cheaper and very customisable.

    Cheers mate,
    Mick.

    1. Thanks Mick!

      iTead say they have now received CE certification on some Sonoff models. It’s a bit hard to find, but they have this on their site: https://www.itead.cc/wiki/images/f/f7/CE_Certificate_for_Sonoff_Series.pdf

  10. Thank you! Really nice video
    Will really like to see your opinion on the Sonoff Touch too

  11. Hi Jon,

    Always look forward to your vids, especially the MQTT/ESP related ones. I had bought a Sonoff a while ago to tinker with but haven’t really done much with it. I got quite excited when I saw the touch on this video and nearly bought it. I say nearly because when read the blurb i noticed a neutral wire is required and unfortunately, as with most standard wired light switches, there are no neutral feeds anywhere near any of my switches.

    Thanks again for all your content!

    Cheers
    Jon

  12. Help needed:

    I’ve setup a homekit fan accessory using a raspberry pi, HAP-NodeJS, MQTT and a sonoff.

    It works fine but the one problem i’ve got with it is the status on the home app not showing correctly. When I turn the fan accessory ON the status in the home app my iOS device is correct and shows it’s ON.

    BUT if I leave it on for a while then go back into the home app is shows it’s OFF even though the accessory is still ON???

    I switch it ON then OFF again and it turns OFF.

    I used this code here for the .js file.

    https://github.com/jat80/ESP8266/blob/master/Home%20Automation/Part%208/relayLight_accessory.js

    But modified a few lines to make it look like a fan accessory.
    I don’t really have any experience with javascript (or coding in general for that matter) so don’t know if there is something else in the code that could be the problem with the status not showing correctly.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

  13. Hello Jonathan,

    Thanks for made me do sleepless nights :/ your posts and videos are very interesting and helpfull.
    I’m trying to connect sonoff rf (with temperature sensor and a button) to openhab with tasmota firmware and I almost succeeded thanks to your tips.
    Your knowledge sharing is very appreciated.
    keep it up…

  14. Hi,
    Inspired by your video, I loaded TASMOTA 3.9.11 firmware to Sonoff WiFi and Sonoff RF. Everything works great except for the control GPIO14 (both Sonoff)
    Shorting GPIO14 to the GND – no effect. I do this with supply from USB -> RS 3.3V (without connecting to 230V).
    Where to find the problem?
    Thank you!

    1. I’ve got exactly the same problem. Got simplest Sonoff with stock firmware and this trick doesn’t work for me either

      1. I don’t think the stock firmware (the one supplied by Itead that works with eWeLink) supports the GPIO14 switch trick. It uses GPIO14 for connecting to sensors. To do that trick you’ll need to use firmware that supports it (such as TASMOTA) or write your own.

    2. It sounds like other features are working properly (such as pressing the built-in button to toggle the relay) and it’s just the GPIO14 feature that isn’t working. Is that correct?

      Check in user_config.h around line 111, which should set the SWITCH_MODE value. For a rocker switch (latching) it should be set to TOGGLE. Also, check that you don’t have any I2C features or sensors enabled because that also tries to use GPIO14.

  15. Hi
    This is perfect! The modules look perfect for running light switches, retaining local control and being able to update OpenHAB with state changes. The only wrinkle is that, like most UK homes, I have no neutral at my light switches. Given the module itself runs on 3.3v, do you think there’s any chance of running it from batteries? I guess it’s unlikely to last very long on a pair of AAs.

    1. It wouldn’t run for long. That’s a frustrating situation, and I want to do a video about it soon. The very brief summary is that you can locate the Sonoff in the ceiling where the active loops down to the switch, and where neutral should also be available. Then you can use the active loop to drag a control wire pair that links a wall switch to the Sonoff. There are some things to be careful of (such as don’t re-use the existing active loop) which I’ll cover in the video.

      1. Ah I see, that should work for the upstairs lights as I should be able to access the wiring from the loft. Not sure about the downstairs lights as I have huge sheets of chipboard which I’d have to cut holes in for access. Might be doable though. Would PoE be a viable alternative? I suppose if I’m going to run cable, I could just run an extra live/neutral in, although not sure of the legalities of doing so. I really appreciate the efforts you put into this site and the videos! Great inspiration!

        1. I meant to say “huge sheets of chipboard as the floors upstairs which I’d have to cut holes in for access”

      2. Did you ever get a chance to do this video. I would like to use these to control my lighting as we don’t have a neutral in the UK i thought maybe putting these in the ceiling next to the lights.

        1. Not yet, but it’s still on my list. Unfortunately my list is way bigger than the time I have available! The next 4 videos are already underway, and the next Sonoff video will have to be after those 🙁

  16. Would you be comfortable running these in the wall cavity behind a switch? Will they overheat?

    Great write up, I’ve got 6x in use at home now with openhab2. Just started on tinkermans Sonoff SC + neopixel ring. Might be a good one to cover next?

    1. Personally I’d be comfortable putting them in a wall cavity. They don’t seem to run hot so I don’t think there’s any particular fire danger. I used to have an EtherTen powered by PoE inside the wall behind every light switch, and they run quite warm. I think Sonoffs run cooler than EtherTens.

  17. Jonathan:
    I flashed a https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_4CH with https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota I have been trying to make it work with Home Assistant without success. If you could help with the setup of both the Sonoff firmware and Home Assistant I would appreciate it immensely!! I have not seen information in your You Tubes about Home Assistant so I hope this is not asking to much!! Thanks for the help in advance!!

    1. I haven’t used Home Assistant, sorry. It’s on my list of things to investigate, but right now I can’t be any help with it 🙁

  18. I’ve flashed the sonoff basic with Tasmota and it works great with OpenHAB.
    But if I connect a short wire (about 20 cm) to the GPIO14 and grnd pin, the switch starts to flip so now and then.
    Might the pull-up be inadequate? Or should I add a filter?
    Any suggestions?

    1. Did you find a solution for this issue?

  19. Unless the Sonoff (or other gadget) will be outdoors or otherwise exposed to the elements or flooding, a weatherproof box is overkill from both the functional and cost perspectives. Similarly, if the Sonoff is indoors and away from kids, animals and friction/vibration, a regular project box can also be overkill.

    Plus, I have a problem with plastic project boxes. They cracked when I drilled holes in them, or they broke while being mounted, or they snapped when the lid was over-tightened. I’m just too cruel to plastic project boxes.

    Metal boxes work fine, but are often too expensive for the task at hand, EXCEPT when the electronics inside generates significant heat, in which case metal boxes are the only way to get the heat out.

    I believe nice boxes are needed only when the device will be exposed for all the world to see. To me, project boxes are more about appearance than anything else.

    My needs for a sheltered electronics enclosure involve guarding against three things:
    1. Insects entering and frying themselves.
    2. Moisture due to accidental spills/spray, or condensation due to normal day/night temperature cycling when humidity is high.
    3. Incidental contact (not forceful) with the surroundings.

    My solution? A heavy-duty/freezer 1 gallon Ziploc ™ bag, some hot-snot, and some tie-wraps. Total cost is under 25 cents. Wish I could attach a photo, but words will have to do:

    Start with the wire cut (Sonoff unmounted), with lots of slack (1-2 ft).

    Cut slots on each side of the bag about 2″ above the bottom, big enough to admit the wire.

    Feed the wire ends in each side and tie a square knot between the two ends, leaving enough spare wire at each end to attach the Sonoff. Secure the knot with a tie-wrap. This provides strain relief.

    Note: The knot is optional, especially for solid wire or Romex: Just overlap the wires and use 4-5 tie-wraps next to each other to prevent slippage.

    Attach the Sonoff, then put everything into the bag.

    Pull the wires tight, place the strain relief so it is in the middle of the bag, right at the bottom. Mark the cable where it exits each side of the bag.

    Put some hot-snot 1″ inside one of the marks, pucker the bag over it, and cinch it with a tie wrap. Repeat for the other wire. Ensure the bag is under no strain when the two ends of the wire outside the bag are pulled apart.

    Next, close the bag most of the way, suck out the remaining air, then close it completely. This ensures the bag won’t inflate due to temperature or atmospheric pressure changes.

    This makes a functional DIY insect-proof and water-resistant enclosure. It is also trivially easy to open and close – no tools required.

    Of course, this solution looks terrible, so it should be hidden, which again helps ensure it is kept well away from hazards.

    And unlike some higher-end weatherproof electronics enclosures (e.g. Pelican), there is no need to include desiccant or do nitrogen purging to control internal moisture, since the step of removing most of the air also removes nearly all of the condensible moisture.

    This enclosure method is fairly durable when protected from the elements and mechanical abuse. I have freezer bag enclosures that are still pliable after being in my garage rafters for over 5 years, and under my bathroom sink for even longer.

    This is not a rugged solution! If more mechanical protection is needed a $2 “old work” plastic double junction box (“J-box”, with cover) can be used, with the freezer bag used inside if moisture protection is needed. The total cost is still far cheaper than a project box, and still ugly enough to be kept hidden.

  20. Hi! I’ve been using sonoff with Tasmota firmware and it is pretty stable so far. The only issue is the random on and off state changes, when a phisical switch is connected as explained in the video (between GPIO14 and GND). This issue doesnt happend when connecting a push button and changing SwitchMode to 3 (pushbutton).
    Is there any way to prevent the switch to randomly trigger? May be a capacitor or a pullup resistor?

    1. Edit: issue also happens with both switch and push button (Switch modes 0 and 3 respectively). I tried with a phone line wire (shielded and grounded to the metal frame of the lamp where the sonoff module in installed), same results.
      I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this issues and solved it, it is extremely annoying to the point I had to leave out the physical switch until I find the proper way (if there is any) to install it.

    2. That’s interesting. I haven’t seen that problem, but there are probably some things that can help fix it. Firstly, you could add a stronger pull-up. I’d start by putting 10k between the input and 3.3V. This will effectively be in parallel to the existing pull-up on the board.

      Do you know if this happens only when the mechanical switch is open, or closed, or both? Also, how long is the cable to the switch, and does it run directly alongside mains wiring? Try to take data connections across mains cables at right angles, if possible.

      1. Hi Jonathan, thanks for the answer. The issue happens both in close and open states of the switch.
        Here you have some pictures of the actual work: https://goo.gl/Miyvm5
        For data, I used 15cm of telephone cable (https://goo.gl/q5Mk8E). That was after considering some the discussion taking place here: https://goo.gl/GlQ94k, specifically regarding the use of shielded cables to avoid interferences.
        For the pictures you can tell I tried to place the data cable from pinout header in a 90d angle wrt mains, but also you can check all cables (main input, output and data) come across a single hole in the lamp and that might not be the best idea. Again, as I am using a shielded cable for data, grounded to the metal frame of the lamp, I thought that would be enough, but may be not at all.

        1. Oh, I see, so the cable isn’t even very long! When I first read your comment I assumed that you meant 15 meters, not 15 centimeters, then I saw the photo and realised that the Sonoff is mounted right behind the lamp fitting. That’s such a short piece of cable that I don’t see how it could be a big problem like this. Also, if it happens in both the open and closed states of the switch, I think there’s some other problem happening here. If the switch is closed, the digital input will be pulled to GND really hard through a direct short circuit, so the Sonoff absolutely should not see it change state.

          I’m puzzled about this. Can you see the Sonoff reporting a state change? For example, if it’s publishing its state changes to an MQTT broker, can you watch that topic and see it send a bunch of on / off messages?

          I’d really like to know what’s going on here.

          1. Hi Jonathan, I decided to re-solder the header pins and replace the external switch, but keeping the shielded wire grounded to the lamp metal frame. It’s been two hours and there are no records of state changes in the logs so I think it was definitely a combination of bad components and amateur mistake.
            Thanks a lot for your kind assistance

          2. Hi Jonathan, I have to say my previous attempts worked like a charm for 12 hours or so, but today the module triggered itself again, two events in a row. You can see the logs here: http://pastebin.com/JT2PXnBL
            And here is a sample log showing the proper triggers made from Home Assistant (intentional, not self triggered): http://pastebin.com/NRY6qW6j

    3. I had this same issue on 2 out of 7 sonoffs I have. Putting a 10k pull up resistor in fixed the issue for me.

      1. Mike, were you using a switch or a push button?

        1. Yes, with a 10k resistor it remains working without an issue (for 24hs now). Seems to be a stable patch

  21. Hi Jonathan,
    Thank you for your great video tutorials! About the rocker switch you used in this episode… is it a regular AC main switch? Or a DC switch? If DC, can you suggest one? Preferably, I’m looking for an inexpensive one that might fit into an AC-sized wall plate. Like this:
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Devon-1-Toggle-Wall-Plate-White-935TWHB/204803145.
    What do you think?
    Cheers!

    1. Thanks Bennett! I just used a regular AC mains switch in the demo, which is massive overkill for this purpose. For mechanical switches there isn’t really any such thing as an “AC switch” or a “DC switch”, it’s just that they are rated for different purposes because of the way AC vs DC behaves when the connection is made or broken between the metal contacts. You’ll commonly see that a switch may be rated for (say) “250V 10A AC, 120V 1A DC”. That means it’s rated to carry a higher voltage and current on AC than on DC. There are multiple reasons for this, but the biggest issue is the way arcing happens. With AC, the arc will self-extinguish 50 or 60 times per second (depending on the mains frequency in your country) but with DC it will sustain the arc for as long as the contacts are near each other. So a high DC current is more likely to weld the contacts closed than a high AC current. Also, the mechanical structure of a switch can be designed in multiple ways, so that either the contacts close and separate slowly / progressively (imagine a typical “slide” switch) or rapidly, snapping open and closed with a spring. Contacts that “snap” open and closed quickly will experience less arcing, so they can handle higher voltages / currents.

      Short answer: any switch at all will be just fine for handling the 3.3V at about 0.002A that the Sonoff needs for a logic input.

      1. Brilliant! Thank you for the response! I learn a lot from you everyday! I soldered headers onto my first Sonoff last night and tried to flash it using the ‘Blink’ example code, but the feedback from the upload was that it appeared to be out of memory (I forget the exact text). I must’ve done something wrong so I will try again this evening. Happy St. Patty’s!

      2. Hi Jonathan, one other question. I’m having difficulty connecting to the Sonoff to flash it using a D1 Mini. Is that even possible? Do I need to load software onto the D1 first? Thank you again. Best, Bennett

  22. Hey guys,
    I wonder if someone can help. I have the Sonoff basic with Tasmota firmware v 4.0.6 installed. I have configured PowerOnState=1, BlinkCount:0, “PowerRetain”:”ON”, etc.

    My problem is that whilst the relay will come on after start, it will never stay on pass 30s and switches off. It does the same if POWER/LIGHT switched on manually. I think I have checked all possible settings, retained flag, etc but can’t fathom it.

    Any help here?

    1. Darn PulseLight…. Got it sorted now.

  23. Hi, thanks for the excellent work, I’m thinking how to do multiple firing with a sonoff pcb, I know that if I change the firmware I can do it as you have explained joining GPIO 14 with ground, but I want to find out some. Method to do it with the original firmware, I discovered that joining the two pins that are seen in the image of the Link, relay switches once but I can not get it to switch again (except I press the button) I think it’s because To be a model without RF components is missing, it would be so nice to verify in your SONOFF RF if you can do the complete cycle of the relay by joining more pins (somehow you have to send the commands off and on the RF module).

    http://s2.subirimagenes.com/otros/previo/thump_9710713img0025.jpg

  24. this helped me alot thank you 🙂

  25. Thanks for the video! It was great!
    Any way to cause a sonoff to switch between voltages rather than switching just between on and off? I have a heating system that will change its function when receiving 220 volts and when receiving 130 volts. I would like to use a sonoff (or any other way) to schedule the control of this.

    Thanks!!

  26. Thank you for the episode – you successfully shamed me into getting around to taking care of the deathtrap Sonoff attached to my lamp! Yes, I knew it was a danger, no I hadn’t got around to fixing it because, well, it worked.

    It is now safe and sound (and earthed!) in it’s grey project box!!

  27. Hey Jonathan,

    Quick question that I am having trouble getting an answer on. With the *stock* firmware, does the pairing button toggle power output?

    Thank you, your info has been great as I am getting up to speed with the Sonoff products.

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